Quitaraju is a really
nice mountain with great views of its south face,
the Alpamayo, Artesonrajo, Huascaran(s), Chopicalqui...
The easiest route is west. ridge, graded AD, but
very very long, sustained and steep in places. North
face is really nice, being graded D, 700m, inclination
of about 55° degrees. Different variants have
different grades, so a tougher climber could find
some 60-70 degree climbing going some 50m left or
right from the arete in upper part of the face.
Before to attempt Quitaraju we suggest that
you should have trekked 4 days minimum and have
climbed a 5000 peak for a good acclimatisation and
fitness.
Day 1:
Drive to Cashapampa, the trailhead. We'll
meet our burros, burro driver and team here.
It will take approximately three hours of
walking with light daypacks to get to camp
Llamacorral at 3760m. |
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Day 2:
A fairly short day, about 2.5 hours with daypacks.
Basecamp is made at 4350 meters in a valley
at the base of Alpamayo on the opposite side
of the route. |
Day 3:
Depending on weather and acclimatization
the next day can either be a rest day (recommended)
or a carry day to 5200m meters.
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Day 4:
Move up to high camp at 5350meters. The
group will carry a load to the high camp
of Quitaraju. The guides will fix ropes
in advance of the group on one steep section.
One fixed rope and two belayed sections
are normal in order to reach the col. |
Day
5:
We climb Quitaraju on a 60-70 degree climbing
going some 50m left or right from the
arete in upper part of the face. |
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Day 6:
We collect all our gear and then we return
to the Base camp.
Day 7: Day 6: We return
to Cashapampa where the minivan will be
waiting for us to take us back to Huaraz. |
Contact: info@peruviantreks.com
for more details and information
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