Alpamayo Mountain 5947m
is recognised as the most beautiful peak in the
world. Our expedition ascend is via the classic
Southwest Face, a route that ascends 350m of sustained
ice climbing up slopes averaging 60 – 70 degrees
and alpine ice grade III.
Alpamayo lies in the Cordillera Blanca range of
northern Peru just south of the equator and 450
km north of Lima. The peaks of the Cordillera Blanca
include 22 summits rising over 6,000 meters and
are separated from the Pacific Ocean by the Cordillera
Negra, a lower range which lacks the snow cover
of the former. Between the two ranges is the valley
Callejon de Huaylas which is the location of Huaraz
and several other large towns.
People must be in excellent physical condition.
Ability to follow alpine ice of grade III using
two ice climbing tools is necessary. Competence
belaying and rapelling is required. Past participation
in a high altitude expedition to at least 5000m
is recommended along with several other technical
alpine ascents of 40 to 60 degree ice and snow.
Before to attempt Alpamayo people should
have trekked 4 days minimum and have climbed a 5000
peak for a good acclimatisation and fitness.
Day 1:
Drive to Cashapampa, the trailhead. We'll
meet our burros, burro driver and team here.
It will take approximately three hours of
walking with light daypacks to get to camp
Llamacorral at 3760m.
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Day 2:
A fairly short day, about 2.5 hours with daypacks.
Basecamp is made at 4350 meters in a valley
at the base of Alpamayo on the opposite side
of the route. |
Day 3:
Depending on weather and acclimatization
the next day can either be a rest day (recommended)
or a carry day to 5200m meters. |
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Day 4:
Move up to high camp at 5350meters. The
group will carry a load to the high col
between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. The guides
will fix ropes in advance of the group on
one steep section. One fixed rope and two
belayed sections are normal in order to
reach the col. |
Day
5:
The climb starts with a reasonably steep
glacier to the bergschrund. The route
is on a huge, shady face with good exposure.
The climbing ranges from about 45 to 70
degree ice and snow in normal conditions.
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Day 6:
We pick up our gear and then we descend
to the Base camp.
Day 7: We return to Cashapampa
where the minivan will be waiting for
us to drive us back to Huaraz. |
Contact: info@peruviantreks.com
for more details and information |
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