Best time: May to september
Time required: 7 days Climbing
Grade: Technical / Difficult

Alpamayo Mountain 5947m is recognized as the world’s most beautiful mountain. Our expedition’s ascent is via the classic Southwest Face, a route that ascends 350m of sustained ice climbing up slopes averaging 60 – 70 degrees and alpine ice grade III. Alpamayo lies in the Cordillera Blanca range of northern Peru just south of the equator and 450 km north of Lima.

The peaks of the Cordillera Blanca include 22 summits rising over 6,000 meters and are separated from the Pacific Ocean by the Cordillera Negra, a lower range which lacks the snow cover of the former. Between the two ranges is the valley Callejon de Huaylas which is the location of Huaraz and several other large towns.
People must be in excellent physical condition. Ability to follow alpine ice of grade III using two ice climbing tools is necessary. Competence belaying and rappelling is required. Past participation in a high altitude expedition to at least 5000m is recommended along with several other technical alpine ascents of 40 to 60 degree ice and snow.
Before attempting Alpamayo people should have trekked for 4 days minimum and have climbed a 5000 peak for a good acclimatization and fitness.

Day 1: Drive to the trailhead at Cashapampa where we’ll meet our donkeys and logistics team. It will take approximately three hours of walking with light daypacks to get to camp Llamacorral at 3760m.

Day 2: A fairly short day with about 2.5 hours walking with daypacks. Base camp is made at 4350 meters in a valley at the base of Alpamayo on the opposite side of the route.

Day 3: Depending on weather and acclimatization the next day can either be a rest day (recommended) or a carry day to 5200m meters.

Day 4: Move up to high camp at 5350meters. The group will carry a load to the high col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. The guides will fix ropes in advance of the group on one steep section. One fixed rope and two belayed sections are normal in order to reach the col.

Day 5: The climb starts with a reasonably steep glacier to the bergschrund. The route is on a huge, shady face with good exposure. The climb ranges from about 45 to 70 degree ice and snow in normal conditions. No vas a decir algo acerca de la cumbre?

Day 6: We pick up our gear and then we descend to the Base camp.

Day 7: We return to Cashapampa where the minivan will be waiting to drive us back to Huaraz.

Contact: info@peruviantreks.com for more details.